History Continues to Amaze
The remarkable history and its lessons at the Shenandoah Valley's Rosemont Manor
Being an amateur historian and a long-time resident of Virginia, I only heard of Historic Rosemont Manor in the quaint northern Shenandoah Valley town of Berryville, Virginia, not even a year ago. When my son and his bride were looking for a venue for their wedding this past weekend, a couple of visits cemented Rosemont as their choice. They chose the “slow” time of the Presidents’ Birthday holiday weekend for their vows and a small family wedding weekend, weather risks and all.
Their objectives included a stately, historic Virginia venue that provided the perfect backdrop to a traditional and memorable Virginia-themed celebration of the melding of families and friends. Mission accomplished, in spades.
I remember my first visit late last year to Rosemont, initially constructed in 1811 when our Constitutional republic was a whopping 22 years old, and which my wife had visited several weeks earlier. I learned of its remarkable history as the home of former Governor and US Senator Harry F. Byrd Sr. (D-VA). It was also the site of the Battle of Berryville, fought between the opposing armies of Generals Philip Sheridan (Union) and Jubal Early (Confederate).
Once you discover who Byrd hosted over his 30+ years at Rosemont, you'll wish their walls could talk. Visitors included several US Presidents. John Wayne. Charles Lindbergh. Albert Einstein. Winston Churchill. I could not help imagining them walking down the stairs to breakfast, or sitting on the ample east front porch, holding court on issues of the day. Its 11 (many of which were added during an expansion between 1910-17) bedrooms are named after people who stayed or lived there.
Byrd's history may "trigger" some people. It is what it is - he represents an era of Virginia and southern history that should be learned from but not judged by today's “standards.” Owner William “Biff” Genda, who bought the property in 2008 and converted it into an event venue (especially weddings) and bed and breakfast, doesn't try to hide or erase its history. He even named guest cottages after Generals Sheridan and Early, the commanding officers of the opposing armies that fought on the grounds on September 3-4, 1864 (the result was inconclusive).
Byrd may be overshadowed by Virginia’s towering historical figures - Patrick Henry, its first governor, George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, James Madison, and James Monroe, among others - but his legendary Democratic political machine dominated Virginia politics through most of the 20th Century. It’s important because it captures the culture and politics that dominated much of the southern United States at the time.
Byrd’s remarkable history begins with his father, Richard E. Byrd Sr., and his younger brother, Richard Byrd Jr., best known as “Admiral Byrd,” a former World War I pilot who was the first to conduct air expeditions of the north and south poles.
Byrd Sr. published the Winchester Star newspaper. It was struggling as young Harry Flood Byrd was turning 15. The younger Byrd persuaded his father to let him run the newspaper. Not only did the entrepreneurial Harry turn around the newspaper, but he also became a successful apple farmer.
Byrd turned to politics in 1915 with his election to the Virginia State Senate. Seven years later, he became chair of the Virginia Democratic Party and began to build his legendary “Byrd Organization.” Capitalizing on the state’s meager voter participation rate, mainly due to poll taxes required at the time, Byrd raised money and helped elected county officials that promoted his version of good government - limited government and fiscal conservatism. When he was elected governor in 1926, he opposed issuing bonds for road construction. He reorganized and modernized state government. He favored a “pay as you go” system instead of debt and first popularized the term.
Interestingly, he had no use for the Ku Klux Klan, despite the KKK serving as the militarized wing of the national Democratic party around that time. He and his family are no relation to another famous Byrd - former Senate Majority Leader, the late Robert C. Byrd (D-WV).
He could only serve one term as governor, a state requirement still in effect. He was appointed and later elected to the United States Senate during the early days of the Great Depression. Byrd, despite being a partisan Democrat, opposed much of President Franklin Roosevelt’s “New Deal” legislation.
Roosevelt came to Rosemont in 1931 - two years after Byrd had purchased it, during his final year as Virginia governor - to persuade the former governor not to seek the Democratic presidential nomination. Byrd was considered a front-runner for the Democratic nomination at that time. Reportedly, Roosevelt asked Byrd to serve as his vice presidential running mate. Byrd declined and ran for the nomination anyway. He finished back of the pack with only 25 delegates through 3 rounds of balloting and never sought the presidency again.
Byrd was appointed to the US Senate in 1933, where he served almost 33 years, passing away from brain cancer in 1966. He was succeeded by his son, Harry F. Byrd Jr., who was eventually elected as an Independent as the Byrd Organization disintegrated. He retired in 1982, succeeded by Republican Paul Trible. Byrd Jr. died in 2016 at age 98, carrying on his father’s legacy as a fiscal conservative and opponent of racial desegregation.
Byrd is best remembered for supporting the “Southern Manifesto,” a document signed by nearly 100 Democratic Members of Congress opposing public school desegregation after the 1956 Brown v. Board of Education decision by the US Supreme Court. Byrd and others felt the court had stepped on powers delegated to the states.
Locally, Byrd is also remembered for his “visitors welcome” sign at the entrance of Rosemont Manor. He opened his home to constituents.
A funny story. Byrd reportedly once went skinny dipping with his grandson in his swimming pool (the pool is long gone). Several constituents showed up to visit with their Senator. Byrd moved over to the pool's edge, hiding his glory while conducting business with his visitors, who were never wise to his situation.
Byrd’s son Richard took over the estate after the Senator passed away. In 1974, during the depths of the Watergate scandal, former President Richard Nixon briefly resided here. He has a room named after him. Aside from Franklin Roosevelt, other Rosemont visitors who were, or became, President include Harry Truman, Dwight Eisenhower, John F. Kennedy, and Johnson and Nixon. Charles Lindbergh, Albert Einstein, and John Wayne, Winston Churchill also visited.
Suppose Rosemont’s walls could talk. They also keep Civil War memorabilia at the offices on their estate. Confederate soldiers made themselves at home here during the early years of the conflict.
Much of the multi-acre estate used to be home to an apple orchard. Byrd was a leading apple grower and spurred much apple industry development in the region, especially during his governorship, even launching nearby Winchester's famous "Apple Blossom Festival," which occurs every Spring.
Berryville is a charming, small Clark County town in the northern Shenandoah Valley, surrounded by excellent wineries (Veramar, Bogati, Twin Oaks, etc.) and breweries (Bear Claw). The Appalachian Trail runs along the eastern ridge of the Valley less than 5 miles away, featuring parking lots, campsites, and an overlook not far from Route 7 (Harry F. Byrd highway, of course). There may be opportunities to arrange canoe trips down the historic Shenandoah River (either north towards historic Harper's Ferry, WV, or south towards Staunton, VA, birthplace of President Woodrow Wilson). The historic town of Winchester is just a few miles west.
But Rosemont and its colorful history serve as a crown jewel of this historic region. It also reminds us that history matters and continues to teach us, warts and all, and commands our respect. Kudos to Rosemont’s Genda for not erasing it or falling victim to presentism, unlike many other communities and historical venues in the Commonwealth.
Our history and historical figures continue to amaze, impress, and inform us.