America’s State Fair
A visit to the Iowa State Fair should be on your bucket list. It’s a welcome, wholesome, and refreshing example of America that everyone can enjoy and celebrate
A great feature of American society is the proliferation of local, county and state fairs. Most, but not all, are held this time of year. They often are timed with the end of harvest season and a summer of growing, grooming, and preparing livestock for competition.
Oklahoma’s state fairs were a staple growing up in the Sooner State. I particularly remember the free political swag found everywhere during the 1972 state fair, with presidential candidates George McGovern and Richard Nixon and their respective political parties sporting large booths, and distributing yard sticks (a coveted item!), buttons, and bumper stickers.
Oklahoma then was a Democratic “swing state,” but showed early signs of its eventual transformation with the recent election of its first and second Republican governors, Henry Bellmon and Dewey Bartlett, and their subsequent elections to the US Senate not long thereafter. McGovern’s anti-Vietnam war and welfare expansion proposals (a guaranteed income of $1,000 per month) didn’t play well in this conservative working-class state, despite McGovern’s rural South Dakota roots. Oklahoma went for Nixon that year, as did 48 other states. McGovern carried only Massachusetts and the District of Columbia, losing his home state, and later lost reelection to the Senate in 1980 to Republican James Abdnor.
But the Democrats still have their booth at the Iowa State Fair. Pictures really do say a thousand words.
Aside from Oklahoma’s I’ve also attended the Illinois State Fair and in recent years, and Pennsylvania’s annual “Farm Show,” a massive enterprise held indoors in early January in a humongous agriculture building in Harrisburg. I probably should add the The State Fair of Texas to my bucket list. It is certainly the longest running, at 24 days (most of October). I’m told the Neshoba County Fair in Mississippi is a must-see.
While state fairs and many of county ones share familiarities - carnival rides, exhibition halls, animal and crop competitions and shows, butter sculptures, and food and beverages - each has unique characteristics. This year, the Des Moines Register newspaper hosted a “Political Soapbox” outside it’s offices on the grounds where every presidential candidate was given 20 minutes to make a speech before a small throng. Attending the penultimate day of the fair, we caught the last candidate to appear - former Arkansas Gov. Asa Hutchinson.
Iowa’s State Fair draws about 1.1 million visitors over a 12-day period. and is arguably the nation’s most legendary. Attendance (1.17 million) was slightly off from its 2019 record, but not much. It is an inspiration behind one of the Rogers and Hammerstein musicals, “State Fair.” Being the “first in the nation” presidential political caucus every four years helps, as nearly every presidential candidate, especially on the GOP side, makes their way to the Iowa Pork Tent to be seen flipping pork chops. Two Democratic challengers to President Joe Biden, Marianne Williamson and Robert F. Kennedy Jr., made appearances.
Tatoos were abundant and on full display, but not litter. Fairgoers kept the place pretty clean. That’s impressive, considering over 100,000 people attended most every day.
The fair got it start in 1845 and moved to its current location in 1886. It spreads across 445 acres in east Des Moines, about 4 miles from the State Capitol, including 160 acres of campgrounds. Campers book one of 1,900 campsites for the full two weeks, but don’t feel too sorry for them. Those sites offer water and electricity, with 600 sporting sewer service. Four shower facilities and a grocery store are on the premises.
Sounds like “glamping” to me. Campgrounds at a state fair are a unique feature I’ve not seen elsewhere.
Befitting a nearly 180 year old successful enterprise, the fair is well organized and expertly operated, with ample parking ($10) and several entrance gates (advance tickets were $11). Tractors and golf carts are on hand to assist fairgoers with rides to and from the entrance. Magnetometers are there, and HyVee grocery chain - a fabulously run Iowa-based company - runs a pharmacy and health clinic. Historic buildings tell the history of the fair, which is amazing. All the volunteers and workers were friendly and informative - Iowa nice.
In 1932, during the height of the recession, when the fair’s future was in doubt, the main event featured two large steam locamotives that collided, on purpose - one labeled “Hoover” for the incumbent Republican president and Iowa native, the other for his Democratic challenger from New York, Franklin Roosevelt. Iowa’s state fair earned its reputation for exciting events when the trains smashed violently into each other. Only a few fair goers were injured as they ran up to the carnage of hot twisted metal, which aptly describes Hoover’s resounding defeat that year, when he carried only six states - New York, Connecticut, Delaware, Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine.
Hoover lost his home state of Iowa in that November’s election. Only four years earlier, Hoover swept into office with a 44-state landslide and 56 percent of the popular vote. More about President Hoover and his remarkable post presidency in my next post (my trip to Iowa included a visit to the Hoover Presidential Museum in West Branch, IA).
Some observations about The Fair.
Politics, Schmolitics
Aside from the Des Moines Register Soapbox and Democratic and Republican booths in a large (and, thank God, air conditioned) exhibition hall, there was no evidence of politiking of any kind. No one talked politics, no one sporting signs, hats, buttons, or candidate t-shirts, at least that I saw. Politics and the 2024 presidential race seemed far from everyone’s mind.
Food clearly won over politics for the hearts, minds, and stomachs of Iowa fairgoers.
We spotted Gov. Kim Reynolds (R-IA), whom we were told attended every day of the State Fair from August 10th through Sunday, the 20th.
That makes me wonder about the validity of the polling we’ve read about, even in Iowa, where Donald Trump’s lead (yes, he visited this year’s State Fair early and briefly) is noticeably smaller (about 23 percentage points) than nationally or in other early primary states (around 40 or more points). National Review’s Rich Lowery reminds us that former US Senator Rick Santorum (R-PA) didn’t emerge in polling until December before the Iowa caucuses in early 2012, which he won (eventually). Almost the same for former Governor Mike Huckabee (R-AR) four year earlier, when he won after his campaign didn’t catch fire until November 2007, just two months before the caucuses. This state is always full of political surprises, as Gov. Hutchinson is no doubt hoping to demonstrate.
It’s best not to take this state for granted, no matter what your polling says. Senator Ted Cruz (R-TX) bested Trump here in the 2016 caucuses, despite the latter’s lead in polling leading up to the caucuses. Iowans inspect candidates up and and personal. Never mind that caucus winners rarely, in recent years, go on to win the party’s nomination. Voters in New Hampshire, South Carolina, and elsewhere have other ideas. Not George H. W. Bush in 1980. Not Robert Dole in 1988. Not Huckabee, Santorum, or Cruz, all members of the “President of Iowa Caucus” in recent elections.
We arrived on Saturday, August 19, in plenty of time to hear Gov. Hutchinson’s Soapbox address. I know the former US Congressman (I used to work for one of his predecessors, the late Republican US Rep. John Paul Hammerschmidt, R-AR), Under Secretary of Homeland Security, head of the Drug Enforcement Administration, US Attorney, and successful two-term Governor. I think highly of him, even if his chances of success in 2024 look dim. He comes across much stronger in person and on the stump than he does in the media. He noted similarities between the relative size and agricultural economies of Arkansas and Iowa, and rattled off several of his gubernatorial accomplishments, including cutting the income tax rate from 7 to 4.5 percent and leaving his successor, Sarah Huckabee Sanders, with a $2 billion surplus.
“You’re the first state that’s going to move away from Donald Trump,” Hutchinson asserted, claiming that his campaign is “not a revenge tour (but) focused on America and service to others.” Questions emerged on abortion, school violence, Ukraine (he support America’s current policies), and immigration reform.
There also wasn’t much of a media presence, at least while we where there. My wife and I were interviewed by the weekend anchor and a political reporter for the Iowa’s channel 15, who was looking for multi-day attendees. That we traveled to The Fair from Virginia was a plus. We were asked what brought us there (bucket list item) and our connections to Iowa (US Sen. Chuck Grassley, R-IA, and our friend Rick Santorum’s previous runs for President in the state, among other great friends).
The Food. OMG.
The Iowa State Fair is probably best known for its unique food offerings, including about 34 that are offered on a stick, from salad to pork chops. I did not see evidence of fried butter on a stick as had been rumored. Corndogs proliferated. Hard boiled eggs on a stick were given away at the Iowa Egg Council’s booth. But signs and booths for every kind of food could be found, from apple nachos to quesadillas. According to the state fair’s official website, 70 percent of fair goers attend primarily for the food. They are not disappointed, especially if they like the fried variety. Fried anything. Including Oreos. Even Canadian food (Poutine) makes a presence.
I opted for one of the new foods being introduced at the fair, a pair of “Grinders.” It’s a large mozarella-stuffed meatball wrapped in bacon and smothered in marinara sauce. Gluten free and Keto-friendly (I think). Delicious. On a stick, of course. Fairgoers get to vote on their favorite new food. This won my enthusiastic support, and I may try it to make it at home.
My grinders did not win the contest for best new food, however. That went to “deep-fried bacon brisket mac-n-cheese grilled cheese,” brimming with gluten and “Keto hostile,” to say the least. If you don’t eat corn, bacon or pork, you will limit your food choices. Vegetarians, more so.
Not a single mask was sported or seen on anyone during our two days. That alone is worth celebrating.
I managed to sample two of 101 craft beers at popular Iowa Beer Tent, which was next to the barbeque tent, popular with the State Police (the BBQ, not the beer). I highly recommend the Blood Orange Wheat Beer from nearby Bondurant, as well as Siesta, which I think comes from Dimensional Brewing Company in Dubuque, a light Mexican-style lager that seemed especially refreshing on a hot summer day. Limes were not provided.
4-H Exhibition Center
After hours in the 93-degree sweltering Iowa summer heat (hottest day on record was on “Older Iowans Day” at the Fair in 2016, 108 degrees), we ducked into one of the nicely airconditioned exhibition halls, this one for 4-H (Head, Heart, Hands, and Health). As a 4-H (and Future Farmers of America) alumni, it was fun to see the various award-winning projects and posters on display from mostly middle-school aged school children. We visited during a busy time, as the Iowa 4-H was inducting several Hall of Fame members. Standing room only.
The posters and projects were all impressive. Here are photos of a few that caught my eye, especially the ones on civic participation. I wonder how these would fare, say, at the California State Fair?
Closing Concert and Fireworks
The Iowa State Fair featured both free musical events, including talent shows and the University of Iowa marching band (I presume Iowa State’s made an appearance, along with a couple of other universities) throughout the park, and concerts every night at its 30,000 seat Grandstand. The last night featured a concert by country music star and Georgia native Jason Aldean, warmed up by Oklahoman Corey Kent. “I didn’t know you had hot weather in Iowa,” deadpanned Aldean as he opened his show.
Mid way through his set, Aldean took time to mention his latest “controversial” song, “Try That in a Small Town,” which he played to his largest applause, and sporting an American flag during his rendition. We’ll let the Des Moines Register tell the story:
“Aldean said the song is about turning on the television every day and looking at what's happening and being like, ‘what in the hell is wrong with all these people. This is not right.’
"’In this day and age, man, every time you do something the public or the media doesn't agree with, or one certain side of the public doesn't agree with, they want to cancel everybody,’ Aldean said. 'You offended somebody.' Well, you can't do anything these days without offending somebody. That's just the way it is.”
“The talk elicited cheers from the audience and Aldean said he is proud of the song, proud of the message it sends and stood by the video. He also thanked fans ‘from the bottom of our heart’ for rallying around the song and video.”
“During the song, Aldean grabbed an American flag from the audience and draped it over his shoulder. He later signed the flag. . .”
Aldean’s edgy, high-energy style clearly connected with the nearly-sold out audience. It’s not my favorte style of music, but he puts on a great show, and I loved the one song I came to hear (see above). Our attendance was marred only by a gaggle of teeny boppers who stood in front of us the entire concert, yelling, screaming, and jumping throughout, during and between songs, as their “adult supervisor” - if you can call her that - egged them on before getting sick. We changed seats. Problem solved.
There was no encore as Aldean finished, as the customary closing fireworks promptly ensued just before 11 p.m. They were excellent, and helped us survive the nearly hour-long wait to exit the parking lot.
The Iowa State Fair has now been checked off our bucket list. It should be on yours. It’s a welcome, refreshing sample of America at its family-friendly best. We left tired but happy and inspired after a fun couple of days.
In our overseas travel in recent years, we sometimes run into younger people who’ve never been to America. When asking them where they’d like to go, they almost always mention New York City. For a taste of genuine America, I’m going to recommend they book a trip to Des Moines in mid-August.
This is America’s State Fair.
Great article with descriptions that bring this great American tradition to life.